Techniques

We've got a new member who is having some issues around our recommended steps and was hoping someone might have a better answer than I do.

I’m struggling with the resizing a bit. Using Photoshop I am getting different results with method 1 and method 2, particularly in the highlight areas. I can’t see a reason why they should vary that much and was hoping for some insight. Additionally I am puzzled by the step to do quality of 10 or 80%. Mostly this seems counter intuitive as I’m already giving up detail and sharpness with the process. Third I’m wondering if this process needs a much greater setting on sharpening. I’m used to a 50% or less setting in photoshop for a full sized image, it gives some pop but does not make the image appear oversharpened. After the re-sizing the detail seems to have gone soft and needs a unsharp mask setting of 70%.

Good question(s) Suggestions, do all of the processing in sRGB and 8 bit this will prevent surprises in color and dynamic range. You see, when any software converts from RGB to sRGB it must guess on out of gamut colors caused by processing in RGB, you prevent that by processing in sRGB. Same goes for 8 bit. DPI makes no difference as you are not printing. The projector will only project at its native resolution. I set my resolution to 72 this allows for a file without enlarging. With most of our high mp sensors, enlargement is not needed. Most club base their entries on maximum file size,say 1 MB, not quality. That is usually the reason to set quality at 80%, keep down file size, this should have no "visible" effect in projection. You need to adjust your sharpening for the situation. Using the previous suggestions your previews should give you good rendition of the sharpening. It is very easy to over sharpen. Usually, do not resharpen after resizing for lots of reasons. On the other hand specific setting for processing depend upon many factors including sensor, camera, in camera software etc. Hope this helps and let my know

> puzzled by the step to do quality of 10 or 80%.

This is required by the software to keep size down. It is my understanding that the software checks that the quality setting is no higher and does not check for a specific size.

Regarding "sharpening" I always sharpen after resizing. Our previous projector had a softer response tham my monitors at home so I usually sharpened a touch more than I would for my home computer. You'll need to test that through your own experience over time. With a new projector, this will likely change. (I put "sharpening" in quotes because the usual "sharpening," unsharp mask, does not actually sharpen--it enhances accutance, edge contrast. Down sampling loses accutance, so some improvement in accutance is usually desirable. More info at: https://clarkvision.com/articles/image-restoration2/ )

Thanks Roger, you’re the guy. I seldom worry about sharpen as 99% off the time Lr and its masking does the trick for me. If it can’t I try Topaz or several of the others. If the original file is not good it’s hard to improve. Just don’t need much for projection. One comment trying to sharpen an image is camera shake can. Produce interesting artifacts. Can’t save a real problem very well.

Thanks Roger, you’re the guy. I seldom worry about sharpen as 99% off the time Lr and its masking does the trick for me. If it can’t I try Topaz or several of the others. If the original file is not good it’s hard to improve. Just don’t need much for projection. One comment trying to sharpen an image is camera shake can. Produce interesting artifacts. Can’t save a real problem very well.